London is riding a slowly breaking wave of West African flavours right now. And all the while bubbling away in the background was Akoko. Its latest executive chef, Ayo Adeyemi, is only adding to that buzz.
Their elevated yet rooted spin is immediately apparent when walking into the Berners Street space, where walls are covered in earthy terracotta clay, glassware on the wooden tables is a fine as a leaf and work by Niyi Olagunju, a Nigerian artist who creates pieces using the pods of ekpiri seeds, is a textural pop of black and gold.
The five-course menu, developed over many months (Akoko is the Yoruba word for ‘time’), is a reimagining of the traditional dishes found in Nigeria, Senegal and Ghana in particular. The jollof rice has blue lobster tail and carrot terrine and the miyantaushe includes butternut squash, mackerel and honey.
This is a spot that's deservedly at the vanguard of bringing a whole new experience of West African food to London.