Londoners were eager to hear what Ollie Dabbous’ next move would be when his booked-solid restaurant Dabbous closed in 2017 with the promise of better things. Better things arrived in 2018 in the form of HIDE – a three-storey, industrial-chic behemoth.

On street level is GROUND, where the team serves British-sourced dishes, and an in-house bakery that supplies the goods for breakfast (it's one of the best brunches in London). Downstairs, in BELOW, is a dark cocktail bar and hidden wine cellar. But if you’re a true Dabbous fan and can handle a nine-course tasting menu, then head up the sweeping staircase to ABOVE. The steamed ikejime turbot is cooked to glistening perfection, served in a sauce made from bones; tail-to-gill cooking at its best.

Other highlights included the roasted king crab with camomile honey, slow-roasted goose with birch sap and barbecued Herdwick lamb. As HIDE shouts about having the largest wine list in London, you can expect to be well looked after by one of its 15 sommeliers. This is cooking that focusses on big-hitting flavours – whether you’re after an easy supper or something smarter.