You could walk past Maru several times and not realise it’s there, set as it is behind low-key frontage on the little Dickensian passageway in Shepherd Market that leads to Ye Grapes pub.

The space has been reborn as Taiji’s personal project, an omakase joint serving up to 10 guests – omakase being a surprise meal in which the chef chooses each piece for you. Sitting at the counter, the world outside, while sushi-grade tuna is sliced a few inches away, feels like just the kind of experience we want right now.

We think each and every of the 20 courses should be a surprise – just go along, take an open mind (there’s nothing particularly challenging though) and an empty stomach.

There are three drinks pairings to choose from, each gracefully poured and explained by the sommelier. Close-up magic of the foodie kind – if there’s a four-letter word for fall-off-your-seat-brilliant Japanese flavours, Maru is it.